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  • jul
  • jun
The Light Of Now

SOUNDS BEHIND THE SCENES

new & now

SOUNDS BEHIND THE SCENES

Discover the sounds behind the ELIE SAAB Autumn Winter 2014-2015 haute couture collection, ‘Palais des Lumières’. Moments and impressions are captured backstage – where beauty is harmonized in a spirit of calm anticipation around the orchestration of Haute Couture creations.

Sounds 1 Sounds 2
Sounds 3 Sounds 5
Sounds 4 Sounds 6
Sounds 7
The Light Of Now

EVENING INCANDESCENCE

new & now

EVENING INCANDESCENCE

From the grandeur of a Parisian interior to the intimacy of a finely embroidered décolleté, a dream-like 'Palais des Lumières’ inspires the ELIE SAAB Autumn Winter 2014-2015 haute couture collection. Reflections of faceted crystal play with light, as an echo to the intricate embellishment and lustrous surface of pearls, in a kaleidoscope of illuminated delicacy.

Watch the video of the Haute Couture Autumn Winter 2014-2015 Collection exclusively on The Light of Now.

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The Light Of Now

Distilling Scent :Green Almond

Inspired

Distilling Scent :
Green Almond

As the third part in a series highlighting the subtleties and seduction of each essence within ELIE SAAB Le Parfum, The Light of Now looks to green almond – the unusually sophisticated base note of ELIE SAAB’s latest fragrance, L’Eau Couture.

Amande Verte

Green almond is the perfect expression of contemporary. Light, fresh and deliciously tart with an almost milky sweetness, the scent of young almond is addictive.

Perfumers know that a natural essence of green almond cannot be extracted from the light green fuzzy outer hull, the shell and the teardrop-shaped almond fruit inside. It must be crafted with the sophistication of modern perfumery. “The extract of green almond does not exist in perfumery,” explains French perfumer Francis Kurkdjian."We isolate the structure, capture and reproduce a scent that is characteristic of green almond."

While a natural essence could be likened to the art of painting, certain molecules used in modern perfumery could be likened to photography. Francis Kurkdjian explains: "Perfumery and photography are contemporary. They are two expressions created by modern man roughly at the same time – photography with the Daguerreotype and perfumery with the first synthetic molecule created in France in 1903."

There is nothing more modern than photography, a flash of urbanity, and a contemporary interpretation of light. L’Eau Couture reflects this modernity in its water-green crystalline liquid, recalling the green almond accord at the perfume’s base, the essence of fresh sophistication now.

The Light Of Now

Palais des Lumières

new & now

Palais des Lumières

The grandeur of a Parisian palace, the iridescent surface of pearls, and the exceptional craftsmanship only possible in haute couture infuse the ELIE SAAB Autumn Winter 2014-2015 haute couture collection with an incandescent beauty.

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Paris, the city of light, influences the collection through its ethereal interiors. Illuminated chandeliers lift the air of anticipation for a palatial soirée, crystallized in details such as fragile tulle and lace that are tremblante with sequins and fine thread, surfaces shimmering with embroidery.

Upon gossamer evening gowns and coquettish dresses, dazzling masterpieces of intricate embellishment recall the intoxicating mix of crystals dangling, conversation sparkling and champagne bubbles rising. Intensity, clarity and warmth come through in hues of crimson, midnight indigo, blue glacier and antiqued rosé like the romance of a Parisian early evening sky.

Haute Couture
Haute Couture

Poetic floral embroidery recalls the arabesques of stately murals, while three-dimensional blooms upon accessories echo the elaborate mouldings in the corners of stately, high ceilings. The textural, richly colored fur stoles suggest plush textiles and tapestries that contrast the classical tone.

A majestic wedding gown comes forth from the suspended chandeliers, as a backdrop for its unfurling volumes, in a regal finish to this tribute to the beauty of Paris illuminated by a brilliant lustre, as if in a dream.

The Light Of Now

LIVE FROM PARIS

new & now

LIVE FROM PARIS

The Light Of Now

The Pursuit of the Exquisite: Shining Light on the Tradition of Haute Couture

La maison

The Pursuit of the Exquisite:
Shining Light on the Tradition of Haute Couture

In light of Haute Couture fashion week in Paris, The Light of Now spotlights the exclusive world that represents the height of fashion. What is Haute Couture, and why does it evoke the exceptional?

Haute Couture

The draping of blouses in the haute couture atelier of Charles Frederick Worth. Paris, 1907. © Jacques Boyer / Roger-Viollet.

While ready-to-wear fashion descends on catwalks in cities across the globe, Haute Couture claims a separate presentation schedule shown exclusively in Paris.

The institution of Haute Couture was born here, in the City of Lights, as an expression of the rich textile industry in France and the flourish of culture under Napoléon III. Considered the 'father of Haute Couture', Charles Frederick Worth founded the first Haute Couture house in Paris in 1856.

Since the institution's inception, 'La Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture' oversees the Haute Couture collection calendar. In 1945, the right to use the name 'Haute Couture' became legally protected under the French Ministry of Industry.

Rites of Entry
A new member must present collections for at least four seasons as a membre invité on the official Haute Couture schedule, must be sponsored by a current member, and be elected by a committee within the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne. Membership is reviewed annually.

The Craft
A minimum of 20 'petite mains', or skilled artisans, must work in the house's own design studio; one dress can require over seven hundred hours of work. Sewing machines and irons may be used for primary seams, yet fastenings, pleats and embroidery must be done by hand. Two collections a year, presented in Paris, each contains at least 25 looks for evening and day in the finest materials.

Haute Couture

Haute couture salon of Charles Frederick Worth, from 'Les Createurs de la Mode', 1910.

Haute Couture

Interior view of the main showroom of French couturière Louise Chéruit in 1910.

The Haute Couture Calendar
Listed on the schedule of Haute Couture collections are 15 houses, as well as five membres correspondants. These are companies whose head office is not based in Paris yet they implement the expertise of Couture.

Couturier Elie Saab was the third membre correspondant to be admitted by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture in 2006. Today, the other membres correspondants consist of the Italian houses of Armani, Valentino, Versace and the Dutch house of Viktor & Rolf.

The houses practicing today continue to preserve the legacy of this important craft, in the never-ending pursuit of the exquisite – from an idea, to fit, to final and stunning effect.

View the upcoming schedule of the Autumn Winter 2014-2015 Haute Couture presentations in Paris taking place between July 6 and July 11, 2014.

The Light Of Now

PLAYLIST #5 SHINE

Music Now

PLAYLIST
#5 SHINE

Summer solstice brings sunlight high, the days long and the music outside. Shining this season is Saint Claude, our new favorite French singer with that little something special. A remix of 'Let Me Down Gently' from Le Roux's second comeback album is the perfect poolside hymn. But it is 'Hurry On Now', by French producer FKJ that captures the perfect summer vibe.

The Light Of Now

URBAN DELICACY

Inspired

URBAN DELICACY

Breezy yet impeccable, fresh, light and crystallized with accents of lace, fur and intricate beading – the ELIE SAAB Resort 2015 collection is a selection of soft impressionist hues in vanilla, pistachio, citron and reglisse. Moments captured from the collection's photo shoot in Paris unveil hidden details, as models' poses meet the light with a confident, modern sense of delicacy.

The Resort Collection is available to pre-order on modaoperandi.com.

The Light Of Now

BABETH DJIAN: FASHION FORWARD

Inspired

BABETH DJIAN:
FASHION FORWARD

Self-made woman, philanthropist, editor-in-chief and a patron of fine photographic talent, Elisabeth 'Babeth' Djian founded Numéro magazine in 1998, now counting editions in Tokyo, China, Thailand and Russia in addition to the founding French edition. Babeth Djian's previous magazine venture, Jill, published between 1983 and 1985, is somewhat of a cult reference and collector's item; as fashion director, Babeth captured – or perhaps created – the essence of 1980s French style.

With an aesthetic sensibility and an entrepreneurial drive at once, she pushes creativity forward. She has crafted Numéro magazine into a reference for the most avant-garde photographic imagery being created today, having brought to light some of our generation's leading fashion photographers, Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott amongst them, who photographed Anja Rubik for the ELIE SAAB L'Eau Couture campaign.

Karl Lagerfeld has said he feels a sense of freedom as a photographer when working with her. At the end of every haute couture fashion week, that evening Lagerfeld photographs and Babeth styles a fashion spread of haute couture looks highlighting the mood of the season, which has become a highly anticipated, bi-annual rendez-vous within Numéro magazine.

Babeth Djian understands the power of fashion not only in the photographic arts but also its power to mobilize charitable aid. Since 2006, she organizes a charity dinner, as honorary president of the association, for 'Un Avenir pour les Enfants du Monde' that benefits the education, nutrition and health of children of Rwanda.

Babeth Djian understands the power of fashion not only in the photographic arts but also its power to mobilize charitable aid. Since 2006, she organizes a charity dinner, as honorary president of the association, for 'Un Avenir pour les Enfants du Monde' that benefits the education, nutrition and health of children of Rwanda.

Babeth Djian par Karl Lagerfeld

When you founded Numéro, what spirit did you want to keep from your first publication, Jill?

Each magazine lives its own life, is given its own personality. My wish was to go forward. I kept nothing therefore, if my only wild desire is to innovate, always.

What is your vision for Numéro?

The magazine is for a woman who is cosmopolitan, intelligent, cultivated, and passionate about art, architecture and design. This woman doesn't expect the magazine to explain how to apply her red lipstick or how to keep her husband, because she knows how to do this already.

As a female entrepreneur, what principles do you always respect?

Before all, respect for the team working at my side. Fidelity, loyalty – they have always remained my cardinal virtues.

You were the first to publish the photographs of Mert Alas & Marcus Piggott. What other photographers have you “discovered" or worked with in the beginning of their career?

Ellen von Unwerth, Inez van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin, Mario Sorrenti, David Sims, Stéphane Sednaoui, Juergen Teller, Sølve Sundsbø and Nathaniel Goldberg... this list is not exhaustive.

What are the three qualities that make an excellent photographer?

Eye, eye, eye.

What is Karl Lagerfeld's strength as a photographer?

A modern Midas – everything Karl touches transforms into gold, whether photography or creation. And, his keen eye seizes the essential in a fraction of a second.

In your opinion, what lighting works best when shooting ELIE SAAB Haute Couture dresses?

You just have to find the light that exalts the wonder and the poetry of Elie.

Read the latest edition of Numéro here.
Learn about the charity Un Avenir pour les Enfants du Monde here here.

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